Madcap cafe veggie nachos1/19/2024 ![]() The huevos rancheros and the chilaquiles are as massive as the egg dishes, and there’s a menudo on weekends.Īlso on weekends some patience is needed, for there’s a wait to get in, and food slows down as orders mount. There are a dozen omelets, another dozen pancake, waffle and French toast dishes, many piled high with whipped cream, nuts and berries. It’s a dish you may have to sleep off for a while. If you want, you can trick the spuds up with eggs, sausage, bacon and veggies, making something akin to potato based nachos on steroids. You want big potatoes? Then go for the California spuds, one of those scrumptious calorie bombs of home fries topped with cheddar, sour cream and avocado pouring on some salsa doesn’t hurt either. Go for the Philly steak mix, and the veggies are tossed with the same grilled steak found in a Philly cheesesteak - a bit of a madcap mashup of dishes. There’s also a section of “mixes” (in somewhat puzzling contrast to “scrambles” they seem kind of the same to me), in which the eggs are scrambled with ham and onions in the country mix, and with onions, mushrooms, spinach, peppers, mushrooms and jack in the vegetarian mix. There’s a simpler, more minimalist scramble called the “B,” that’s just eggs with diced ham. Another is the more refined mix of spinach and jack cheese. One is eggs with chili and beans - very down-home, blue collar and tasty. The scrambles are a wonder, with enough of a protein hit to offset the carbs on the side. Funny how a starch can change the ethnic meaning of the rest of the dish. It’s an interesting choice - to my sense, toast makes it Midwestern, biscuits and gravy skew the meal to the South, and tortillas take it south of the border. There’s also a choice of toast, biscuits and gravy, or tortillas. Breakfast at Sunrise involves a lot of food. These are, in the much honored tradition of these restaurants, meals that begin at large, and get bigger from there. And partly because you may not believe you finished the whole thing. But these are definitely dishes to remember hours later. Not extremely so this isn’t food out of an alternative culinary universe. But it’s the breakfasts in which, to use a particularly strange turn of words that seems to fit, Sunrise lets its freak flag fly. They’re also a somewhat nostalgic journey to what I think of as Middle American/Midwestern cuisine - the turkey dinner plate, the roast beef dinner plate, chicken Parmesan, chef’s salad, tuna melt, patty melt, egg salad sandwich - with milkshakes of vanilla, chocolate, strawberry and Oreo to wash it all down. There’s a sizable menu, with many dishes listed under “Lunch Delights,” and then further listed under “Salad Corner,” “Burgers & Dogs,” “Hot Sandwiches,” “Cold Sandwiches” and “Hot Classics.” They’re just fine, if that’s what you’re in the mood for. Like many of the breakfast and lunch cafes in the Long Beach area, the dominant meal at the amazingly busy, very good Sunrise Cafe at the corner of Lakewood Boulevard and Carson Street in Lakewood is breakfast.
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